Whittier serves as one of two main embarkation ports for northbound Alaska cruises and a common ending point for southbound voyages - but unlike Seward, it lacks the tourism infrastructure that makes overnight stays straightforward for most travelers.
How Many West Coast Cruises Have You Taken?
What Cruisers Should Know About Whittier
- The town has roughly 280 year-round residents, most living in a single 14-story building, with only two small hotels that book months in advance during Alaska cruise season.
- Access requires driving through the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel, which operates on a timed schedule and can create 30+ minute waits on cruise ship days.
- Alyeska Resort in Girdwood (19 miles away) offers a practical alternative - full resort amenities, multiple restaurants, and an easy morning drive to the Whittier cruise terminal.
- The 26 Glacier Cruise and kayaking excursions are excellent but work better as pre-cruise or post-cruise add-ons rather than embarkation day activities.
- Most cruisers find staying in Anchorage (60 miles) and arranging morning transfers to be the simplest approach, though it means treating Whittier as purely a boarding point.
Article Index
- How Whittier Differs From Other Alaska Cruise Ports
- The Whittier Infrastructure Problem (And How to Work Around It)
- The Tunnel Reality
- Excursions Worth Building Time For
- What You Can Actually Do on Embarkation Day
- If You Have a Full Day (Pre or Post-Cruise)
- Wildlife Expectations
- Weather and What to Bring
- Comparing Whittier and Seward as Embarkation Points
- The Bottom Line on Spending Time In Whittier
Here's the honest reality: Whittier exists primarily as a port, not as a tourist destination. The town developed during WWII as a secret military installation - chosen specifically because fog obscured it from view - and that isolation persists today. There's no downtown shopping district, no strip of waterfront restaurants, no easy walk-off-the-ship-and-explore experience as you'd find in Ketchikan or Juneau. For cruisers starting or ending their Alaska voyage here, Whittier requires more planning than other ports.
That said, the planning pays off if you're willing to put in the effort. The glacier and wildlife access from Whittier is genuinely spectacular, and nearby Alyeska Resort makes the logistics far more manageable than the town's limited services might suggest.
How Whittier Differs From Other Alaska Cruise Ports
Most Alaska cruise ports - Juneau, Ketchikan, Skagway, Sitka - function as mid-voyage stops where your ship docks for six to eight hours while you take excursions or walk around town. Whittier works differently. It's where cruises begin or end, which means your interaction with the town depends entirely on your itinerary direction and how much buffer time you've built in.
Northbound cruisers (embarking in Whittier): Your ship typically starts boarding between noon and 2pm. If you're arriving from Anchorage that morning, you'll have maybe an hour to walk around before boarding. Not enough time for excursions.
Southbound cruisers (disembarking in Whittier): Ships usually clear passengers by 8-9am, leaving theoretical time for activities - but most travelers are focused on getting to Anchorage for flights or continuing to Denali.
The real opportunity: Arriving a day early (for northbound) or staying a day after (for southbound) opens up glacier cruises, kayaking, and the surrounding area. This is where Whittier's location becomes an asset rather than a logistical hurdle.
The Whittier Infrastructure Problem (And How to Work Around It)
Whittier has two hotels. That's it. The Anchor Inn and the Inn at Whittier serve the entire cruise passenger population that wants to stay overnight, which means they book solid months in advance during peak season. There's no Holiday Inn Express, no Marriott, no backup options if your first choice is full.
The town also has limited dining - a handful of casual spots that serve the local fishing community and summer visitors. You won't go hungry, but you won't have to choose between restaurants.
Compare this to Seward, the other main Alaska cruise embarkation port, which has a developed downtown with multiple hotels, restaurants, shops, and the excellent Alaska SeaLife Center. Seward functions as a tourist destination in its own right. Whittier functions as a port.
The Alyeska Solution
Here's what changes the equation: Alyeska Resort sits 19 miles from Whittier in the town of Girdwood, and it's a legitimate destination hotel. Full-service spa, multiple restaurants including the acclaimed Seven Glaciers, aerial tram to mountain views, ski slopes in winter, hiking in summer. Staying at Alyeska the night before your cruise gives you an actual Alaska resort experience, then a 25-minute morning drive to the Whittier cruise terminal.
This approach solves several problems at once:
- No scrambling for Whittier's limited hotel rooms
- Real dining options and amenities
- A genuine Alaska experience rather than just a place to sleep
- Close enough to Whittier for morning excursions if you want them
- Far enough from Anchorage to feel like you've arrived somewhere
For first-time Alaska cruisers who assume Whittier requires either staying in the tiny town itself or driving from Anchorage on embarkation morning, Alyeska is the option they don't know exists.
The Anchorage Approach (Simpler, Less Scenic)
Most cruisers stay in Anchorage the night before and arrange morning transfers. This works fine - Anchorage has abundant hotels at every price point, plenty of restaurants, and established shuttle services to Whittier. The tradeoff is that you're spending your pre-cruise night in a mid-sized American city rather than experiencing Alaska, and you're adding 90 minutes of travel on embarkation morning.
Transfer options from Anchorage:
| Option | Time | Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rental car | 90 min | Varies + $13 toll | Drop-off available in Whittier; most flexible |
| Shuttle service | 2 hours | $65-85/person | Hotel pickup; multiple operators |
| Alaska Railroad | 2.5 hours | $115-165/person | Scenic route along Turnagain Arm; no tunnel |
| Private transfer | 90 min | $250-350/vehicle | Door-to-door |
The Alaska Railroad deserves special mention. The Glacier Discovery route from Anchorage to Whittier follows Turnagain Arm with views of hanging glaciers, potential wildlife sightings (including beluga whales in the inlet), and landscapes you can't see from the road. It costs more and takes longer than driving, but it turns the transfer into an experience.
The Tunnel Reality
You can't drive to Whittier without passing through the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel - 2.5 miles through a mountain, shared between cars and trains, operating on a timed schedule. Traffic alternates directions, with vehicles released in waves every 15-30 minutes.
What this means practically:
- Check the tunnel schedule before planning your arrival time
- Budget extra time on cruise ship days when traffic backs up
- The toll is $13 for passenger vehicles (2024)
- The tunnel closes at 11:15pm - no late arrivals
The tunnel schedule isn't a major obstacle, but it does require awareness. You can't just show up whenever you want and drive through.
Excursions Worth Building Time For
If you're going to add time in Whittier rather than just passing through, these are the experiences that justify the effort.
26 Glacier Cruise (Phillips Cruises)
This five-hour cruise into Prince William Sound is the signature Whittier excursion, and it's genuinely impressive. The boat navigates among tidewater glaciers - close enough to feel cold air radiating off the ice - while naturalists point out harbor seals on ice chunks, sea otters in kelp beds, and occasional whale sightings.
The timing problem: The cruise departs at noon and returns around 5pm. If your Alaska cruise begins boarding at noon, this doesn't work on embarkation day. You need to either arrive a day early or book this as a post-cruise activity.
Details:
- Season: May 3 through October 5
- Duration: 5 hours
- Cost: $189-229/person depending on seating
- Departs from Whittier Harbor (arrive 90 minutes early)
Glacier Kayaking
Paddling among floating ice with glaciers in the background is a different experience than viewing them from a larger boat - quieter, more immersive, better for photography. Several operators offer guided trips ranging from three-hour introductions to full-day expeditions.
No prior kayaking experience required for beginner trips. Dry suits provided (the water is around 40°F). Wildlife encounters are common - sea otters seem particularly curious about kayakers.
Best for: Travelers who want active experiences; couples looking for something memorable; photographers wanting unique angles.
Helicopter Tours
Aerial views reveal the scale of the Chugach Mountains and surrounding glaciers in ways impossible from sea level. Tours range from 30 minutes to two hours, with some including glacier landings.
What You Can Actually Do on Embarkation Day
If you're arriving in Whittier the morning of your cruise (the most common scenario), your options are limited but not nonexistent.
Waterfront Walk (Free, 30-60 minutes)
The paved path along Whittier Harbor offers mountain and water views with decent odds of spotting sea otters, seals, or eagles. It's not a grand adventure, but it's a pleasant way to kill time before boarding and get your first taste of Alaska's coastal environment.
Grab Lunch
Varley's Swiftwater Cafe is the go-to spot for fish and chips and chowder. China Sea offers Chinese-American fare. The Anchor Inn has a basic restaurant. None of these are destination dining, but they'll feed you before you board.
Look at Begich Towers
The 14-story building where nearly all Whittier residents live is architecturally bizarre enough to be worth walking past. You can't go inside the residential areas, but the exterior tells you everything about how this town works.
Prince William Sound Museum
Small museum at the Anchor Inn covering WWII history and the 1964 earthquake that devastated the town. Worth 30 minutes if you're interested in the context.
Skip the Buckner Building Interior
The abandoned military building is photogenic from outside but closed and dangerous. Don't try to enter.
If You Have a Full Day (Pre or Post-Cruise)
With an actual day to work with, here's a reasonable itinerary:
Morning: Portage Pass Trail hike (4 miles round-trip, moderate difficulty, excellent glacier views) or kayaking excursion
Midday: Lunch at Varley's
Afternoon: 26 Glacier Cruise or wildlife viewing cruise
Evening: Dinner at Alyeska Resort (if staying there) or in Girdwood
This assumes you're staying at Alyeska or in Whittier itself. Trying to do a full day of activities while also driving from Anchorage gets tight.
Wildlife Expectations
Prince William Sound supports abundant marine life. What you might realistically see:
Common: Sea otters, harbor seals, bald eagles, various seabirds
Possible: Humpback whales, orca, Steller sea lions, black bears along shorelines, mountain goats on cliffs
Best odds: Book a wildlife-focused cruise or kayaking trip. Glacier cruises include wildlife viewing but prioritize the ice.
Weather and What to Bring
Whittier receives over 170 inches of rain annually. Pack waterproof layers regardless of the forecast. Temperatures during cruise season (May-September) typically range from 50-65°F, cooler on the water.
Essentials:
- Waterproof jacket and pants
- Warm layers (fleece, down)
- Waterproof footwear
- Binoculars
- Camera with polarizing filter (reduces ice glare)
Comparing Whittier and Seward as Embarkation Points
If you're choosing between Alaska cruises that embark from different ports, here's the honest comparison:
| Factor | Whittier | Seward |
|---|---|---|
| Town infrastructure | Minimal - two small hotels, few restaurants | Developed - multiple hotels, restaurants, attractions |
| Overnight ease | Difficult without advance planning | Straightforward |
| Nearby resort option | Alyeska (19 miles) | None equivalent |
| Glacier access | Excellent (Prince William Sound) | Excellent (Kenai Fjords) |
| Distance from Anchorage | 60 miles | 125 miles |
| Driving experience | Tunnel required, timed schedule | Normal highway, scenic |
Neither port is wrong. Seward is easier for travelers who want simplicity. Whittier works well for travelers willing to plan ahead or use Alyeska as a base.
The Bottom Line on Spending Time In Whittier
Whittier isn't trying to be a tourist destination, and approaching it with those expectations leads to disappointment. The town exists to move people and cargo between land and sea. That's what it does.
But the location is spectacular, the glacier and wildlife access is world-class, and Alyeska Resort transforms the logistics from "challenging" to "manageable." If you treat Whittier as a transfer point with optional adventures attached - rather than expecting a walkable cruise port like Ketchikan - it works fine.
For northbound Alaska cruisers willing to arrive a day early and stay at Alyeska, Whittier actually becomes an advantage: you get a resort experience plus glacier excursions before your cruise even begins. For everyone else, it's a tunnel, a boarding process, and the start of something better.
Planning an Alaska cruise from Whittier? Heather Hills at Flow Voyages can help you navigate the logistics, including whether a pre-cruise night at Alyeska makes sense for your itinerary.
Thanks for reading. We hope this was helpful!
Why stop now?
Participate In Our Polls | Ask or Answer A Cruise Question | Contact Heather to Book Your Next Cruise!
